Similarly for General Eyewear, great guys and i am very happy with the end result. One of the things you commonly say is not to change house style too much as there is a risk it might not turn out as expected, based on cutter experience, etc. As has been mentioned, your tie is stunning, but sadly it doesnt feature in Drakes current line up. I have received and worn the suit, and can highly recommend it. The suit feels very large due to the drape, without much shape (not shaped in the waist much despite three fittings) and at the same time it feels restrictive in the shoulders. The same business model doesnt quite exist, no. Located in a charming building in the heart of Mayfair, just off Savile Row and Conduit Street. Indeed, the tailor will usually line up the waist button marks when pinning the jacket during a fitting. The results are great and I would very much enjoy hearing how your experience is. Buttonholes are sewn with silk thread by hand. Can one bring the suits in for complimentary sponge and press, for example? Equally, as Im probably going to take the leap, if youd like any feedback from me on it, Id be more than happy to share. Its just that if any bespoke tailor spent as much as designer brands on marketing, advertising, shops etc, theyd be 50% more expensive. Alex N. OK, good Alex. The navy cloth appeared to be the same toile fabric as W&S had used for my baste fitting, as the correct cloth was out of stock and the toile helped us to progress without waiting. Would you have any advice for what I should ask for if you dont think their house style fits with that criteria? Brilliant. Thank you and have a pleasant weekend. If youre into your clothes, you might well know the name Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Maybe the cloths between what you ordered from W&S and what Ive got from GB arent comparable, but I think the difference between them is rather less than 300 (not that I begruge GB putting their prices up slightly they are still excellent value). For Whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant say that i feel they provided a great deal of guidance. Would be nice to see W&S in the style breakdown series. Apologies if these are ignorant questions, but this will be my first foray into bespoke (thanks to the amazing information youve provided on this website)! And often they vary in service depending on who does the outfitting. See how much you wear it and what you enjoy about it, at least for a while. Great article . Yes, it would be just as acceptable (and in the same way, a little showy). Once your account is created, you'll be logged-in to this account. Thanks and all the best, Michael. Any thoughts as to where I might find one? Hi Simon, I would take it back in and talk to the tailor about it. And hands out of pockets do allow a superior view of cut and style.. nice one. Thanks as always, In London, just them and city tailors like Graham Browne. Ah, no that was navy trousers, serge. Simon, Solito, Dalcuore, Caliendo and Rubinacci (in ascending order of price! Was this cloth amongst their offerings at their base price or was there a cost supplement? I dont want any slim, modern stuff. Hi Simon. No, the style is different in other ways too. Its Hard to Make a Custom Raincoat. P.S. And although some of these details werent perfect on the examples I saw in the Whitcomb & Shaftesbury workrooms, this lap seam was very nicely done. The navy suit turned out lovely and is a comfortable business staple. I like traditional and full, not modern and sleek. Id say they are both very good. Thank you. Your comments in the discussion are helpful in triangulating their merits. Predominantly a Savile Row style or do they stray into Neapolitan construction as well? English style in mens clothing England has always been one of the poles of mens fashion along with Italy. Also, is their normally a third fitting?. Alex Natt. I noticed that the Saman Emel jacket (22 January 2018) gives more prominence to your shoulders and to my eyes, a more balanced presentation. As a footnote Shortlist today have an article on Penhaligons free fragrance profiling service. I dont think this is something you have covered already (apologies if i have missed it). Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. I have got two questions which I think a lot of people toil with. The strange thing is that this occurs in three different suits from 2 different makers with 3 fittings each. Accepting your assurances that it is navy, I think it looks great and would do well in my eyes for my perception of business which may differ from those in the financial sector, I didnt Im afraid no, so I dont have the cost. Simon. Following your review of W&S I have scheduled an appointment for their upcoming visit to NY. Black mens jeans: how to choose and with what to wear? Congrats on the blog. What you may not know, though, is that while the name sounds traditional, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury has built its reputation for quality by doing things differently. HB, In some ways, yes, though the structure etc is different and the value itself even better too. Hi Simon, quick follow up on the cloth and finding the right shade of navy for business. He brings with him to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury his wealth of knowledge, skill and relationships with the trade to ensure the finest outcome in standing with his credentials. Their sessions do include fittings. Do you know anything about her? All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. Yes, a small change in lapel width is fine. Updated: Dec 14, 2021. Get the Robb Report newsletter for similar stories delivered straight to your inbox. Its a nice process but one that can take years as any full wardrobe upgrade would effectively do. Do you see this as suitable for business, or not so much? Moreover, thanks to the well-oiled workings of the Chennai workshop, New York customers who place orders during the first leg of the trunk show (November 16-19), will be able to have their pieces fitted when the brothers pass back through New York between November 29 and December 1, negating a long wait (most tailors wont return to fit clients till spring 2022). Im a student , Look up Graham Browne and Whitcomb on this site. How flexible would you say they are in terms of cut, construction etc? Some of us surely do not desire to try out lots of tailors but love and romantically hatch the idea of naturally having your tailor where you get many different things from over the years and build a trusting relationship. Simon what is your experience with Rubinacci in London? Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. With over 400 years of accumulated experience on Savile Row, our master cutters and tailors take care of ensuring a perfect fit, creating the ultimate collaboration of design and craftsmanship. Have a look at our Suit style series for other advice too, Sorry if im asking something youve already been asked, but are there any other comparable offerings in this price range/overseas production for a first foray in to bespoke, or are W&S out there on their own in this regard. Full disclosure: I did weigh 6kg more when I ordered the suit than I did at the first fitting. But when in 1760 Read More. So should be here for the long term. From Suits to Shirts: The 19 Best Bespoke and Made-to-Measure Menswear Shops in NYC, The 15 Best New Pieces of Winter Menswear to Buy This Week. In terms of an every day style for work, would you so this would be more suitable than Edward Sexton? Very happy with her. I think youll be absolutely fine if thats what you want. From the sounds of it you were quite impressed with the offshore made suit. I specifically dont want to blame either as certainly most clients are quite satisfied. Very nice suit. I think there is often a risk with bespoke that people expect perfection, and everything to have been considered for them, when it is more interactive, and does have most benefits over time. Simon, Whitcomb might have a slightly greater range in style than Sexton, but not much. It looks a really nice sturdy twill from the picture. Are there any big differences between the two different fabric weights? As I showed back in 2016 when I had suits made in both, there is no quality difference between the two. When he died, his son, also named George, inherited the property and began to lease out parcels of land to tailors. What I also find interesting and perhaps would be an interesting point of discussion with a tailor is that even though my right shoulder drops, I dont think my right armhole should be lower. I believe the W&S suit suffers more in cut than in make, as the linings are more supple than the ones Neapolitans use, the finishing and buttonholes neater. Do listen to the tailor when you talk about it as well. If you decide to trust one and go for it how far can you impose your ideas of cut and style on them? About a year into running the business, purely as a made in London bespoke tailor, the Ramakrishnans decided to support a charity program called Children of the World in the wake of the 2004 tsunami, which devastated large parts of India. At Maison Bonnet, for example, the process would be a lot more involved. And looking at her site, I have my fears she certainly seems to be a stylist rather than a cutter. So be prepared that its a risk. Hi Stephen, Ask them and theyll show you the various options. Maybe this blog will help change that. Wow, I think this looks fabulous! Another question: in another post you mention desiring to be measured at the house itself; a friend of yours had gone to a trunk show and did not receive good results with fit. 4,523 followers. Located in the heart of London's Mayfair district, Savile Row is home to some of the world's most prestigious men's fashion designers and tailors. I cant comment on how many of your readers are in a position like me (i.e. Cheers. The word yachting as well as the concept itself came into our vocabulary quite recently. I want to have a morning suit made. I really like the concept of this certainly a product with much more soul than your average MTM suit. Hi Simon. Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. Id start with Whitcombs offshore bespoke. Is there an equivalent for this type of value with other articles (i.e. Having said that moreso that the fit quality shines through. Their business has actually been going for a few years enough to train up that whole Indian workshop without much exposure at all. Hey Justin. Am I safe to give them full and total control and have the suit made in their house style, or will I end up regretting it? Its not the end of the world, but it certainly bugs me to face an issue which I did not face with RTW- a collar gap. I also havent asked about those kind of changes, so Im not sure. Thanks for your time, JK. Hi Ethan, On the style questions, eg pockets, have you looked through the Suit Style series of posts? The fit quality shines through the heart of Mayfair, just off Row. Browne and Whitcomb on this site price or was there a cost supplement, inherited the and. Little showy ) and Rubinacci ( in ascending order of price to see W S... 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